lightened crank pulley

the ST flywheel i've lightened does not give significant improvement in acceleration... to further improve in gaining better pick up, total angular momentum of the rotation crank has to be light weight... this includes the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch assembly, as well as the crank pulley... since removing the crankshaft, flywheel and clutch assembly requires a lot of work, i opted for lightened aluminum crank pulley...



i got this JASMA aluminum crank pulley rather cheap... weighing in at approx 576 grams, it weighs far less than original cast iron crank pulley... the alternator pulley for this is 1 inch smaller... this creates less load on the engine when it spins the alternator... but the down side is, the alternator will charge less, especially at lower engine revolutions....



upon changing the crank pulley, i felt immediate response in throttle... revs climb up a little faster compare to before... i can maintain in 4th gear at junctions/corners where i usually need to downshift to 3rd gear...

however, the downside is my alternator is charging less... previous reading was approx 13.2 volts... now, the reading never above 13 volts, sometimes it just averages 12 volts at idle... this could possible due to dying alternator...

driveshaft issue... final episode??...

in my previous post i mentioned the crush washer for the center hub is being ported to allow the drive shaft to be secured tightly to the hub... this method still does not totally eliminate the free play... hence today i got back to the workshop B...



they fitted a spacer at the back of the knuckle bearing...



this kept me wondering... since it's now secured tight, why skim the drive shaft at the first place??...

lets see how well this time it holds... hopefully can last until i "readjust" the height of my suspension soon...