teflon anti roll bar bush...

we all know that original rubber bushing are meant to absorb noise, vibration and harshness.. but the downside of using rubber bush is that it keeps breaking and tearing apart under extreme uses...



polyurethane (PU) bushes came into sight... it is far more reliable compare to rubber bush but it still allows fair bit of flex in its structural integrity... polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is by far stiffer compare to polyurethane and rubber bush... it is more well known by the DuPont brand name Teflon...

so far most aftermarket available bush made from polyurethane material... getting a teflon material bush is rather rare, not to mention its price... of all the bushings used in a car, anti roll bar bush has the most simple design... so, why hunt up and down for the product when u can make one yourself??...

i bought myself a 1 meter teflon rod from a local plastic ware factory... i also came to know they do make custom fabrication for PU, PE, teflon as well as plastic for all applications and usage... good info there as i was also looking for custom PU absorber top mount bush...

fully utilizing the campus facility, i fabricated a few sets of these bushing based on standard rubber bushing dimension... the teflon ones are made shorter by 1-2mm due to the fact they do not crumple like rubber bush do when it is being tighten down onto the anti roll bar linkage...



quick installation was done onto my car... mind the wrong side up satay linkage because i did not have suitable tool for the job... the rod just clear my chassis frame by centimeters... during hard cornering it does show some improvement as the car does not bounce up and down anymore... it remains stable through the corner with minimal flex... these bushes would certainly do more for those who has thick anti roll bars because they exert more force to the bushing...



yeah, its for sale anyway... Rm40 per set (8pcs)... any takers??...
be sure to check your anti roll bar linkage because it can only be used on satay-lookalike anti roll bar linkage... drop-linkage ARB which looks like the photo below is not suitable...

ultra racing room bar...

another long awaited bar finally find itself a final home... to be stepped and treated as foot rest...



screwed tight to the ends of B-pillar, it provides a supportive beam to strengthen the middle part of the car... this bar is particularly useful for sedan cars which has B-pillar...



insist only in original product...

E-manage blue...

after long awaited... years of saving... finally... the parcel arrives...



some says its nickname is e-damage... others say its imitation product... whatever it is, it increases horsepower... and more importantly, a stepping stone for me to learn the dark side of software and ecu tuning...



together with it's ignition harness, this is by far the best bang-for-buck piggyback ecu available in the market...



installation was done by an aircond man...



which leaves the tuning part to this nice chap from Millennium Motorsports...



a baseline run was done and it only recorded approximate 80whp at 5500rpm... the AF mixture is also running slightly rich across the rev range, averaging 12.5:1...



after 13 runs fiddling with the air fuel ratio and ignition timing, max result achieved at 96.3whp at 5700rpm... torque peaks at 90FtLb @ 2400rpm and maintain all the way till 5700rpm... fairly satisfactory considering it is running on 95-octane fuel with "paliah" spec setup...



dyno chart speaks for itself...



the AF graph maintains 13:1 ratio all the way and dip down rich slightly at rev cut to prevent any serious engine failure...



FYI, dyno dynamics is an inertia dyno... it is also considerably heavier on load compare to other dynanometer... quick search on the internet reveals that results obtained from dynodynamics is 10-15 percent lower compare to dynojets... with the use of outboard weather station, it detects the ambient temperature and configures the dyno machine correction factors such as barometric pressure, relative humidity, ambient air temperature and inlet air temperature...



so, the disappointing low figures ain't really disappointing after all... :)

intake ram pipe...

after months of tinkering and calculating, i've decided to make a ram pipe direct from the back of the headlamp to the throttle body... its a 3.0 inch tip to tip stainless steel pipe with short elbow at both ends... this setup matches my engine tuning as it provides fair bit of air restriction, which improves the velocity of airflow through the intake with expense of minor CFM at higher revs... higher air intake velocity over CFM gives better mid-range torque... throttle response also maintained as there is sufficient reserve air inside the huge pipe...



fabrication work was done at InnTec Exhaust somewhere in Cheng... welding job was nice and finishing was satisfactory... only minor trimming is needed at both ends as the elbow extend a little too far to cause some turbulence inside... its a worthwhile job as there is noticeable improvement in mid-range torque as well as cooler air intake during daylight time...