driveshaft issue... yet again...

remember the last post regarding my driveshaft drama somewhere during end of August??.. here is it again, after just mere 3 months of usage... symptom was similar as before... metal rubbing sound followed by vigorous jerk on steering wheel each time accelerate...

i headed to this workshop (workshop B) claiming that they fitted my driveshaft wrongly during the clutch change... he said my was a bit too low, causing the driveshaft to knock against the knuckle whenever suspension travels up and down... this knock causes stress on the bearing joint of the driveshaft, damaging it prematurely... on statement i would accept his explanation... he suggested to skim the driveshaft a little bit, giving some free play so that the bearing will not absorb all the stress...



first few weeks of usage was trouble free... the car accelerates from standstill with less vibration on steering column... i was kinda enjoying it until some familiar bearing malfunction sound start to occur... jacked the wheel up and did some test revealed the truth... the whole hub is moving (free play)...



got the bearing replaced... but there are still minor free play on the hub... as my mechanic from my familiar workshop explains, workshop B had over-skimmed my driveshaft, causing free play on the hub which in turn will cause damage on the bearing oil seal and the bearing itself....



quick solution, the washer was skimmed to allow the hub to sit properly on the driveshaft... lesson learnt, if your car is maintained by one trustworthy workshop, try stick with it....

DIY replace satay bush & service brake caliper...

just after weeks changing the new satay bush, its now damaged again... the mechanic probably over torqued the bolt and nut, causing extensive stress on the rubber bushing...



at first i thought of DIY some teflon bushing from campus workshop... the bushing design is very simple, should not be a problem if i master how to use the machine... at the end of the day, laziness again took over... haha... so here we are with 8 new rubber bushing, cost 60 cent each...

late night project started... with limited tools, i jacked the car up and started unbolting the satay...



with a locking plier... lolz...



reinstall the satay bush according to configuration as previously i removed it... but this time with bolt head facing downwards... this is because if fitted upwards, the additional thread on the bolt will rub against the lower arm, causing minor but irritating squeek sound whenever the suspension travels up and down...

with both wheels hanging off their suspension when the car is jacked up, both antiroll bar hole and lower arm hole does not align to each other... hence i jacked up either side of the lower arm until the hole align with each other for the satay to be installed...



installation took quite some time due to lacking of proper tools...



after finishing battling the satay, i tackled the right brake caliper... it was a bit leaking... since i got the new brake caliper oil seal at home, tried my hands dismantling the whole thing and get it replaced...



caliper removed...



(no additional photos available coz i was working alone that time... hands were soaking wet with brake fluid..)

after removing the old brake seal, i cleaned the caliper and the piston thoroughly with sand paper, detergent and running water... took me some time to fit in the new seal as i was not aware how to fit it in properly... in the end i jz forced the thing in and fitted it back together as it was getting late... haha..

the following day noticed some leak from the caliper... quickly took my car to the workshop and get it serviced properly... the problem was i fitted the brake seal wrongly... the inner main seal was not properly fitted, causing minor oil leak...

small details end of 2009...

some small details to update end of 2009...

had some problems with my car cold start... throttle body ISC problem i guess... coolant line inside TB stuck with rust... thanks for cipan's advice for additional FICD to solve my problem...



connection is rather simple... the concept is similar with using FICD to control aircond idle rpm, leaking air into the intake... but the wiring is a little bit different... i tap the wiring to 12v DC source inside cabin with an independent switch to control it... so whenever i do coldstart, i jz switch on the FICD... this will automatically increase the revs and stabilizes the idle rpm without having the engine choking to death... lolz...


i also swapped my ProRallye plug cables to OEM items from BOUGICORD... revs feels lighter now... stock plug cables are still the best... given that the connectors are not contaminated with rust...




the rear antiroll bar is also in contact with the exhaust piping whenever the suspension travels up and down... hence i wrapped it with some sponge (in this case some leftover SAMCO hose)....




right rear brake hose also brushes against the inner metal fender... slicing it bit by bit, causing brake malfunction like what i experienced previously.... fast solution, cut some garden hose and wrap it around the brake hose to act as a shield...




also so-called secured my throttle pedal in place, hardcore style... cable tie and duct tape is really useful... lolz... now can do practice proper heel-n-toe braking adi...

1.6 clutch...

time to change... hehe... my old 1.3/1.5 clutch no good adi... clutch plate jumping around... clutch cover KO adi...

almost a year back i purchased a 1.6 ST flywheel... measuring 8.0" diameter...



i got it skimmed and lightened from 6.7kg till 6.3kg... removed about 400g off...



other shopping list includes "local" exedy 1.6 clutch cover...



"local" exedy 1.6 clutch plate...



clutch bearing...



flywheel oil seal...



specifications of the clutch plate and clutch cover...





installation took almost half day... my old clutch was removed and it was still good for "estimated" another year of trashing....



VALEO brand...



double clutch spring ohh...



flywheel oil seal was changed simultaneously with clutch bearing...





flywheel contact surface was sanded for rough surface, easier for clutch plate to grip...



after installing back everything in order, the clutch feels grippy now... less jerk when i release the clutch... revs feels a bit lighter as my ST flywheel weighs slightly less compare to my OEM flywheel... overall satisfied as i didnt expect much gain from it... likewise, i just hope it wont slip under heavy acceleration...



remember, its a blue box... not red box... i no racing racing one...

cusco oil catch tank...

added some bling to my engine bay... price was quite attractive as well...

CUSCO maliii~!!!!



items included in the box... even got free bling bling sticker.. haha...



see how bling it is... very well finished, for a grade A imitation product.. lolz..



due to limitation of place to hang my new toy, had to place it beside my radiator... hose used below is from plastic kitchen gas hose... not recommended as it melts under high temperature... had it replaced with rubber hose already

cermic brake pads...

since the front RVR brake set i bought comes with unknown brake pads starts squealing, i thought its good idea to upgrade to better brake pads... for your info, RVR brake calipers fits wira 1.6 / GSR / perdana brake pads... hence, there are lots of aftermarket performance brake pads to choose from...



i took the Cermic brake pads which khguan recommended me... cost me if not mistaken, Rm140... it is rated 500 degrees Celsius...



during installation, my mechanic found out that right brake pad wears out faster compare to left brake pad... suspect leaking brake caliper seal on the left side...





had it replaced with new perdana brake caliper seal...



directions on how to fit the caliper seal in place...





this is how the brake caliper piston looks like... single pot... larger unit compare to original saga caliper piston...



fitting in the new brake pads were jz the reversal of removing the pads... remember to use back the metal backing plate as it allows heat to be distributed evenly across the brake pad surface without directly overheating the brake fluid inside the caliper...

took this opportunity to change the rear brake pads to new ones as well... rear brakes takes up about 30% of the braking efficiency of a car... hence, i dont need performance brake pad at the rear... normal ones will do as long as it aids braking at high speed...



fortunately, my mechanic manage to spot a leaking brake brass pipe... it was shaving itself off the absorber... salvaged a good condition pipe from a wrecked saga nearby...



comments on the Cermic brake pads... initial bite wasnt as strong as RS pads... but the hotter it gets, the better it bites... but somehow on hard downhill run, brake smell was strong and it starts fading quite soon compare to my old pads...

so, should i go for much more expensive performance brake pads or cross-drill my disc??...