efi tune up 1.4...

this time we attack the intake side... throttle body...



the original throttle body that came with the injection package had just 46mm in bore diameter... fairly suitable for standard 1.3L engine... but with the current displacement i'm having, i needed something bigger...

i was planning on getting a 50mm throttle body from 4g92p (1.6 wira) but the prices are kinda steep... halfcut shops are selling at approx Rm350 each...

fortunately i found someone selling this particularly rare throttle body from perdana sei which uses 4G63 SOHC engine... it measures 54mm in bore size diameter... price kinda cheap, Rm220 to be exact...



FYI, the ISC for 4G13, 4G15, 4G92p and 4G63 sohc is the same... hence, its plug and play...

installation was done at home by myself... bought new 0.8mm paper gasket to prevent air leak in between throttle body and intake manifold...



installation was abit tough because the coolant inlet and outlet piping is at the wrong position, blocked by the water temperature sensor... the usage of coolant flowing into the throttle body is to actuate the so-called "autochoke" function to ease cold start in the morning... in the end, i forced and twisted the metal piping away and bypass the coolant so that it does not flow into the throttle body...

i also made a crude heat shield protecting the plastic ISC unit from direct contact with the intense heat from the coolant hose running below the throttle body...



fired up the engine... soon after i found my idling rpm is vr high, approx 1.8k rpm... managed to turn down my idle rpm till the minimum by closing tight the idle air bypass hole and throttle spindle hold back screw... yet, my idle still maintain approx 1.2k and fluctuates 1.2k-1.5k when engine warmed up... my mechanic said too much air leaking through, hence causing the idle fluctuation... he suggested me to remove the ISC completely so not much air will leak through...

another problem i'm facing after swapping to larger throttle body is partial throttle response... the TPS that came with the perdana sei throttle body has 3 pinouts while original 1.3 throttle body has 4 pinouts... the previous seller recommend me to use back my original TPS...

the problem is... maintaining the TPS at stock setting, partial throttle has very bad response... as if throttle body isnt communicating with the ecu... this can be solved by advancing the TPS setting, but creates another problem... advance TPS setting will cause high AF mixture, hence deteriorating the fuel economy...

in the midst of giving up, i swapped the 4 pinout TPS with my 3 pinout TPS and see whats what...



to my surprise, the engine runs smoother than before... latest calculation gives me slightly better fuel economy compare to previous original 4 pinout TPS...

due to slightly larger intake, the engine AF mixture would had messed up... and yes it is... oversize throttle body is certainly letting too much air into the engine..



damn, i'm in desperate need of adjustable fuel pressure regulator to bump up the fuel pressure...

other updates...

bought myself a lightweight, space saving spare tyre... because my current front and rear brake setup requires minimum of 14" rim to clear the calipers, i opt for this lightweight 15" spare rim...



measures 125/70/r15...




lately i also notice my front windscreen has a 4cm long crack... i've enquired from workshop for the fixing cost... they quoted me Rm1xx... they also advice me it is not worth repairing as a brand new windscreen only cost Rm3xx... so, i'll leave it there as it is... unless insurance company willing to cover the damage... hehe...

efi tune up 1.3...

210cc injectors i previously using causes rich AF ratio... this kills my fuel economy and sparkplugs... hence, got my hands on 4g92p injectors... they measures 182cc each... hopefully can achieve close to stoich AF ratio...



changing the injectors are fairly easy... here is step by step on how to change injectors of ur engine...

- unbolt 2 bolts which holds down the fuel rail... becareful not to lose the rubber spacer under the fuel rail...
- disconnect the injectors signal cable... remove the safety pin first...
- pull the injectors out together with the fuel rail...
- unplug each injectors and swap them with ur desired injector... make sure the top o-ring is in good condition... replace it if worn out... worn out o-ring can cause fuel to leak due to high pressure in fuel rail...
- put everything back together in reverse method...

efi tune up 1.2...

there are some disadvantage connecting air filter directly to the throttle body... most obvious one is that it sucks hot air into the engine... as everyone knows, cold air yield more horsepower...

i did made a trip to local exhaust shop see if they can make a stainless steel piping extending the air filter to the area behind the headlamp... i was quoted Rm1xx...

hence i decided to copy cipan's idea of using flexible cold air intake hose as RAM pipe... unfortunately the cold air intake hose i'm selling isnt big enough to fit either the throttle body or the air filter... i'll need around 3 inch diameter hose... so, here it is....



the hose is same size with the air filter... took quite some time to squeeze the hose into the air filter... meanwhile on the throttle body side, the hose is a little larger than the throttle body outer diameter... despite not being the suitable size, i forcefully clamped the hose to the throttle body seal-tight...



improvement can be felt especially at low end rpm/speed... less laggy in throttle response... though i still miss the maniac sound of the open pod air filter directly connected to the throttle body...

efi tune up 1.1...

throttle body ISC kantoi d... so when aircond kicks in, idle rpm plunges alot... fortunately i still have my denso ficd around... this ficd originates from toyota ae101... can be found in halfcut shop for about Rm50...

connection is rather simple by following the connection diagram found in the internet...



jeng jeng jeng...



aircond ON idle problem solved...

efi malfunction 1.2...

ever experienced fuel leaking from ur car??... yes i did... fuel hose connecting to the fuel pump outlet leaked...

1st time leak happened before i started journey back to ipoh... nvm, cut away the punctured hose and reconnect it to the fuel pump...

2nd time leak... happened at tanjung malim RnR... same method, cut away the punctured part and reconnect it to the fuel pump... at this point, the hose is very short and barely reaching the fuel pump...

3rd time leak... Gopeng exit... this time i wouldnt have enough rubber if i were to cut away the punctured part... i would have to extend the hose with some extra fuel hose found in my tool box... i search through the glove box and i found my el cheapo tyre pressure gauge... i dismantled the whole thing and took the metal housing tube as connector...

see how crude it is... well at least it managed to bring me back home safely to ipoh...



the next day i quickly changed the whole hose with a new one...



from my estimation, i think i lost almost half tank of petrol on PLUS highway...

efi malfunction 1.1...

my revs are getting weaker n weaker... a quick drive to the workshop reveals something scary...



the filter element in the fuel filter has dislodged from its position and blocking the outlet path of the fuel flow... hence causing choke and fuel surge... why??... because it was fitted in the wrong direction, the pressure from the fuel pump damaged the fuel filter inside....

efi chapter 1.5...

finally, my car is able to discharge from workshop... due to time and cost constrain, i didnt manage to find a suitable ram pipe connecting the air filter and throttle body... so what i did is connect both of them directly...



fuel pump location... rear left side under the rear bumper beside the fuel tank...



as my oem injectors are 145cc in size, they are insufficient to deliver smooth revs especially after 4000 rpm... hence, i swapped into my 210cc injectors... immediately can feel smoother power delivery... but somehow the air fuel ratio is still deemed rich coz 210cc is a little too big for my car displacement... hopefully i'm able to purchase a piggyback ecu soon...

so, e-manage blue or safcII ??

efi chapter 1.4...

early morning got a call from the workshop saying that the fuel pump i bought previously was leaking... hence, no choice but to buy a new unit...

later that evening i visited the workshop again... engine is up and running with my new fuel pump... stuff not in place yet are air filter and o2 sensor...



kee also mentioned that my car doesnt have speed sensor and check engine light... as far as chikdin mentioned, wira svdo speed sensor can be installed to iswara oem speedometer... but this requires abit of work dismantling the meter cluster...

fortunately i had a spare faulty speedo at home which i can get my hands on...



this is the speed sensor...





the speed sensor in place...



notice the clearance??...



i wonder how the speed sensor generates signal from the speedometer...

efi chapter 1.3...

hardware parts were fitted in already... intake manifold, throttle body, fuel rail, fuel injectors, distributor, etc...

ah kee quickly proceeded with the wiring issue linking the ecu and sensors on board...



not much update as i hang around the workshop for a while only...

efi chapter 1.2...

visited my car today... only half day gone, my engine is in bare shell... dismantling is much quicker than putting everything back together...



old skool system removed...



first time i get to see my ported and polished intake port... damn hardcore wei... dont even dare to get it bench flow tested... afraid i might get reduced efficiency compare to stock standard...



a few things confirmed... fuel pump will be located at the back axle... air filter flexible piping status yet to confirm as the seller went MIA... adjustable fuel regulator needed??... dont know yet... get my baby up and running first...

efi chapter 1.1...

intake manifold + throttle body + fuel rail + fuel injector



46mm throttle body



145cc injectors



wiring





mmc ecu



throttle cable



mmc distributor



bosch 910 external fuel pump



k&n air filter



gonna run all the above setup first and see how... afterall, budget still not enough for a complete tune up package... step by step lor...

UR rear antiroll bar...

after ages since i got the item from a seller, at last i manage to install it last week... its UR rear anti roll bar... i got it second hand item for Rm200... what is does is it prevents much bodyroll occur to the car chassis during hard cornering...

installation was done at CK exhaust in malim jaya, melaka... installation charges were bloody expensive, Rm60 to be exact... damn other workshops in KL area charging Rm30 only...

anyway, installation was done as soon as the car is jacked up and wheels were removed...





they uses mig welding technique... not sure if it holds... we'll see...



this is how it looks from the bottom... the rear end exhaust piping seems to be in contact with the antiroll bar... going through uneven roads can hear metal knocking sound even though the welding joints are intact...



first impression... low speed corners doesnt feel much difference... but at high speed hard cornering, the rear end really sits firmly onto the ground... and if u give it a hard left-right steer, rear end sways a little, inducing little oversteer effect...

so far so good... i'm still adapting myself to the characteristic of it together with the grip limit available from my michelin pp2 tyres...

RVR front brake upgrade...

after a long search for VR4 brake, i was offered with this RVR brake set... RVR is a compact MPV produced by mitsubishi during the 1990s... older versions sports the 4 lugs, PCD 114.3 front brake set while the newer version uses 5 lugs hub... the older version, 4 lugs, is the perfect upgrade for saga iswara...



some facts about this brake set... it uses a single pot caliper, which is similar to GSR calipers... means that i'll have a wider choice of performance brake pads in the future... the disc is jz any normal ventilated disc rotor, allows better cooling compare to saga iswara original solid disc rotor... and unlike VR4 knuckle, RVR knuckle allows saga iswara tie rod end to be fitted from the top, as the original design of saga iswara tie rod end position... this minimizes toe changes when the suspension travels up and down...



i was informed by amier dat it shares the same wheel bearing with proton waja and the caliper service kit can be taken from perdana v6 model... good information, when i do need to service the brakes in the future... thanks again...

installation was pretty much straight forward... my mechanic removed the original brake and knuckle assembly and disconnected the driveshaft and tie rod from its position...





RVR ventilated disc rotor...



RVR single pot caliper...



brake pad is similar with GSR ones... brake hose use back original saga brake hose...



complete assembly...

after that sent my car for alignment and camber wheel adjustment... overall i spent Rm50 for installation, Rm20 for toe alignment, and Rm20 to adjust the camber position... i also spent Rm22 for a new bottle of DOT4 brake fluid...




complete assembly with 15" rim in place... somehow the disc brake still look small... haha....



so far, steering feedback feels normal, though not as crisp as original saga knuckle at high speed cornering... i guess the best possible way is to reuse back saga knuckle, but with modifications to fit the enlarged disc rotor and calipers...